Lab assistant at the course Analytical Chemistry, Advanced Separation Methods (2019- )

My research topic is about chemicals in textiles. The project aims to develop analytical methods for screening and quantification purposes in order to increase the knowledge about chemicals present in textile material. Chemicals hitherto detected in clothes may cause several health effect as skin allergy, irritation and some even suspected or proven carcinogenic. Another important aspect is the environmental concern. It has been shown that chemicals are released from clothes during laundering and may affect the environment and the aquatic life.

On-going projects

Currently we are using high-performance liquid chromatography with high-resolution orbitrap mass spectrometry in order to perform screening of compounds in textile material, both suspected compounds from previously studies as well as new classes of chemicals having possible environmental or health concerns.

Further we are developing analytical methods in order to identify compounds in effluent laundry water and water passed through wastewater treatment plants.

We are also in the initial phase of studying the skin penetration of chemicals released from textile material and the formation of possible protein reactive metabolites.

A selection from Stockholm University publication database

• Suspect and non-target screening of chemicals in clothing textiles by reversed-phase liquid chromatography/hybrid quadrupole-Orbitrap mass spectrometry

  2021. Josefine Carlsson (et al.). Analytical and Bioanalytical Chemistry 414 (3), 1403-1413

  Article

  The global manufacturing of clothing is usually composed of multistep processes, which include a large number of chemicals. However, there is generally no information regarding the chemical content remaining in the finished clothes. Clothes in close and prolonged skin contact may thus be a significant source of daily human exposure to hazardous compounds depending on their ability to migrate from the textiles and be absorbed by the skin. In the present study, twenty-four imported garments on the Swedish market were investigated with respect to their content of organic compounds, using a screening workflow. Reversed-phase liquid chromatography coupled to electrospray ionization/high-resolution mass spectrometry was used for both suspect and non-target screening. The most frequently detected compound was benzothiazole followed by quinoline. Nitroanilines with suspected mutagenic and possible skin sensitization properties, and quinoline, a carcinogenic compound, were among the compounds occurring at the highest concentrations. In some garments, the level of quinoline was estimated to be close to or higher than 50,000 ng/g, the limit set by the REACH regulation. Other detected compounds were acridine, benzotriazoles, benzothiazoles, phthalates, nitrophenols, and organophosphates. Several of the identified compounds have logP and molecular weight values enabling skin uptake. This pilot study indicates which chemicals and compound classes should be prioritized for future quantitative surveys and control of the chemical content in clothing as well as research on skin transfer, skin absorption, and systemic exposure. The results also show that the current control and prevention from chemicals in imported garments on the Swedish market is insufficient.

  Read more about Suspect and non-target screening of chemicals in clothing textiles by reversed-phase liquid chromatography/hybrid quadrupole-Orbitrap mass spectrometry

• Cellulose Nanocrystals from Postconsumer Cotton and Blended Fabrics: A Study on Their Properties, Chemical Composition, and Process Efficiency

  2022. Maria-Ximena Ruiz-Caldas (et al.). ACS Sustainable Chemistry and Engineering 10 (11), 3787-3798

  Article

  From manufacturing to disposal, the textile industry faces multiple challenges to achieve sustainability and reduce its environmental impact. This work investigates the properties and composition of cellulose nanocrystals (CNCs) extracted from clothing waste made of cotton fibers. We isolated CNCs from cotton, polyester/cotton, and acrylic/cotton waste fabrics through acid hydrolysis with sulfuric acid. A yield of 51-62 wt S4, ( co tt on basis) was obtained, and nearly all the polyester and acrylic libers contained in the initial fabrics were recovered in a convenient shape that could allow easier recycling. CNCs extracted from the selected fabrics showed high purity, similar structural, physical, and chemical characteristics, and their properties were comparable to those extracted from virgin sources, although their surface chemistry and elemental composition slightly differed. The chemical components in the waste fabrics and the extracted CNCs were evaluated through a nontarget chromatographic-mass spectrometric screening strategy. Both the recycled textiles and the CNCs contained hundreds of compounds common in postconsumer textiles, including some with health and environmental concerns. However, our initial findings show that their concentrations in the CNCs are negligible. Our results provide insights into the challenges associated with the use of cotton waste textiles for the extraction of cellulose nanoparticles, and into the potential applications of the extracted nanomaterials.

  Read more about Cellulose Nanocrystals from Postconsumer Cotton and Blended Fabrics

• Disperse azo dyes, arylamines and halogenated dinitrobenzene compounds in synthetic garments on the Swedish market

  2022. Josefine Carlsson (et al.). Contact Dermatitis 87 (4), 315-324

  Article

  Background: Azobenzene disperse dyes (azo DDs) are well-known as textile allergens, but the knowledge of their occurrence in garments is low. The numerous azo DDs and dye components found in textiles constitute a potential health risk, but only seven azo DDs are included in the European baseline patch test series (EBS).

  Objectives: To investigate non-regulated azo DDs and dye components in synthetic garments on the Swedish market.

  Methods: High-performance liquid chromatography/mass spectrometry, gas chromatography/mass spectrometry and computerized data mining.

  Results: Sixty-two azo DDs were detected, with Disperse Red 167:1 occurring in 67%, and 14 other DDs each found in >20% of the garments. Notably, the EBS dyes were less common, three even not detected, while arylamines were frequently detected and exceeded 1 mg/g in several garments. Also, halogenated dinitrobenzenes were identified in 25% of the textiles.

  Conclusion: Azo DDs and dye components, in complex compositions and with large variations, occurred frequently in the synthetic garments. The arylamines were shown to occur at much higher levels compared to the azo DDs, suggesting the former constitute a potentially higher health risk. The role of arylamines and halogenated dinitrobenzenes in textile allergy has to be further investigated.

  Read more about Disperse azo dyes, arylamines and halogenated dinitrobenzene compounds in synthetic garments on the Swedish market

Show all publications by Josefine Carlsson at Stockholm University